Sunday, November 30, 2008

Walking Dubronik City Wall-September 18, 2008

We are quite spoiled by now. We wake to the most beautiful view in the world, accompanied by lovely piano music from next door. We have had breakfast on the patio each morning where we have been able to linger with our coffee. This is what vacation is all about. Our plan for today is to walk the wall and look in to a concert in the old city tonight.

If you are a walker then the wall is just perfect. Bon and I did get ahead of Tom and Rollie, but you just feel like you want to get in to the walk and make it worth your while. There are many places to stop and take in the view. And while the view of the old town from outside the city walls at our place is magnificent, it is indescribable when peering out from the tall walls that surround and protect the town. Up and down and around, it is a great walk. They have a poster of the war damage when you enter the city so you can see how they have rebuilt. There are plots that simply have piles of rocks, destroyed buildings that have not been rebuilt. These ruins are not from the last war, they are part of the town prior to the 1667 earthquake which were found years prior to the 1991 war. From a distance you see the town and all the fresh tile roofs, it is a different view in some spots from the wall.

Bon and I finished the walk long before Tom and Rollie, so we sat and had a drink at the harbor area bar and watched for them to come down. We found one another in a short time. A little browsing at some of the little stands-Bon got her tiny little hand made boat here and then we went to get information on a concert for later that evening. We choose the one that was going to be held at Rector's Palace Atrium, which was right across from the church that had a wedding party celebrating yesterday. We have always run in to beautiful brides on these trips. Weddings aren't only held on the weekends here. Once we had our plans set for that evening we went searching for a place to grab a bite and found ourselves at Arka, just up from the vegetable/fruit market. Pizza and pasta here and it was very good and pleasantly served. The host (the Captain) was very cordial. All of the restaurants have someone with menus hawking their place. It is a lower season now, so everyone is vying for business from smaller crowds. Next door to this place was a small Internet shop. Unfortunately we received bad news from home today while checking email, Tom's co-worker and dear friend (they worked together for over 30 years) had passed away. Needless to say it was a shock and made us quite sad. One of those life is short moments for sure. Kathy had lived a good life but surly died way too young, she was our age. Typically we are very aware of how blessed we are and how short and fragile life is. We don't take anyone or anything for granted, at least we try not too. We would toast our friend this evening.

Our walk back had us stopping at a statue of Marin Drzic-of course pictures and the "knee rub" for good luck as well as photos on the canon just inside the entry. As we made this walk again we decided we would cab it home tonight. Walking up once a day was enough.

We walked back down later that night. We stopped at a large outdoor lounge sort of kitty-corner and down the block from the palace hosting the concert. They had just about any drink you wanted-Tom had a Pina Colada and we toasted his friend Kathy. The concert was in the atrium so was actually "outdoors". It was amazing, you walk through the doors and in to the courtyard and once they close those huge doors, no more noise from the busy city outside. This show was presented by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. The pianists were Ildous Galioulline and Goran Filipec and they performed Schubert and Schumann. We enjoyed this concert. It was a nice performance and the somewhat intimate setting added to our enjoyment.

By the time the performance was over (and it was not a real long show) it had really gotten chilly out. We walked out of the walled city and hailed a cab at the cabbie stand just outside that area. He got us home with no trouble and we all hit the sack. Tomorrow would now be our "fish picnic".

Day trip to Cavtat, September 17, 2008

We all were a little lazy today. Originally we had thought about the fish picnic but decided to do it later this week (we should have done it on one of these bright sunny days and not waited). Instead we took a boat down the coast a way to Cavtat. The ride was pleasant and it looked like we had plenty of time to explore the town if we wanted to.

Right near the boat landing is a nice walk way with benches and tropical looking trees in planters. We parked ourselves at a little place and had a drink. I don't know why we didn't do the Rector's Palace that was here. We sort of walked around, peeked in a few shops (all the wares here were the same that we had seen), picked up a couple of trinkets at the outdoor market and tried to locate the TI. We did find the office, but it was simply an office space and the woman there appeared tied up with someone else. There were no brochures or anything like that. We did find a large map on a wall down the road and it outlined the area. Unfortunately if we wanted to explore more of the area (Konavle and the restaurant Konavoski Dvori -which I had read some nice things about) we would need a car. We had not come in our vehicle because for one, we didn't want to lose our parking space and two, it just was too big for these narrow roads. Unless you are a party of 8 don't accept an upgrade to a van. We would have ventured out differently if we would have had something a little more reasonably sized. In Dubrovnik the parking was a huge issue. We did end up moving the van because someone left a nasty note on it. Our apartment rental (Simply Angelic Apartments) insisted we could park anywhere on the opposite side of the street we were on. I think we sort of doubted this. We wished there were better parking arrangements here. A smaller vehicle would have helped, but honestly, parking for her place was a problem.

We were sort of bummed to find out we really couldn't venture away from town on this excursion. This is probably a place that is really hopping in high season, it just didn't seem to have any umph while we were here. Maybe our expectations were too high, don't know what it was. We decided to have our lunch here though, right on the main drag and it was pretty good. After that we caught a boat back to Dubrovnik. We weaved ourselves in and around some of the back streets, popping in interesting looking shops before we headed back to our place. We stopped at the grocery store, picked up a fresh batch of goodies and then headed up to our place. Tonight we were going to have the Tischer's and Bruechner's up for a farewell drink.

This was sort of a regroup day, we did some wash when we got back, had a little personal down time and then got our little spread ready for evening on the patio. We enjoyed another simply breathtaking sunset while listening to music from the iPod. By the time our guests arrived the weather had really taken a chilly turn. We had a drink outside and then moved to our "suite". Baily's and coffee, that will warm you. Even the beer drinking boys enjoyed that. Tomorrow our friends would be taking off for Germany. Our plan for the next day is to walk the wall.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Thanksgiving

Here we are, another Thanksgiving celebration. I'm 58, will be 59 in December, so have been around for quite a few of these special days. I do not have many special memories about the Thanksgiving holiday as a child though. Christmas when I was a kid truly overshadows any other holiday. I do have fond recollections of Thanksgiving as an adult though.

As a young married we went back and forth with the big dinner on the traditional Thursday holiday. My sister-in-law would have it, we would have it, someone would have to go to another family members for the day, all would change, the usual that happens when families meld. My divorce altered that holiday. Beth sort of took it over and that was fine with me. We were beginning to start a tradition. The tumultuous year my brother and sister in law separated was the only year we haven't all met for the Thanksgiving dinner. We corrected that the following year. Thank God, that is when we learned what the true meaning of extended family was and what family was for.

Our tradition on Thanksgiving day was for each of us to stand and tell all what we thankful for. Each year we individually had special things to be thankful for. Truly I don't believe any of us, while grateful and giving, have a clue of all we have to honestly be thankful for.

My brother served during Viet Nam. Many didn't make it home from that war. I don't think we ever properly said thanks for the safe return of this perfectly marvelous human being that has given so much back. There was a time in our lives when it was just me and him. I remember those times and still feel gratitude for having him in my life. Webster could never have enough words to describe all that he is as a man and a human being, or my love for him. I give thanks every day that he has been in my life and certainly every day that he has been in the lives of my children. They, as do I, adore him and could never imagine life without him. Of course he brought my sister-in-law Beth in to our family. Despite twists and turns in their lives Beth is a sister to me, daughter to my mother and utterly beloved auntie to my children. I cherish her and can not imagine a life without her.

My Mom was born to a poor, poor farming family. Her mother died when she was five years old. Her sisters helped raise her along with her father. She was born during the deepest depression this country has ever seen. I am in awe of her father, Rollie Witt. Without a wife at his side he raised five daughters. Didn't walk out, stayed and took care of his family. Men from that cloth just really aren't made anymore. No education to speak of my Mom found a way to take care of her family as well. I don't think she ever thought divorce was a part of her future, but it was-that and three kids with no support to speak of. She stayed and never walked out either, no matter how tough things got. I have always been grateful to lay claim to the genes of those two human beings. He lived in to his 90's and she is out there now, will celebrate 80 years next July, teaching dance, helping people set up web-sites, etc. Yeah, I'll surly claim these folks as my people.

At the age of 17 one of my sons suffered a stroke. As anyone can imagine it was devastating, to him and to us. But I discovered this young man, that had no direction or no sense of himself prior, fought like heck to get himself back. It wasn't an easy task. But he has done it. There have been setbacks for him, make no mistake. I knew he had the will to live but that next step was difficult for him to take. Proud "papa" of two Boxers he knew he had to figure out a better way to take care of all one is responsible for when it isn't just you. He finally took steps forward this year and now I have an honor student, a member of the Phi Theta Kappa International Honor Society, to brag about. As is always the case, success just keeps begetting success, he is on his way. Returning to school and working like a dog to succeed has propagated more than just a good report card. It has been a watershed moment in his life and there will be no turning back for him. How wonderful to watch your son soar!

It will seem I'm playing favorites to single out just a few of the kids. They are all such wonderful human beings. Gina, my oldest (the nurse) donated a kidney while in nursing school a few years ago. Yeah, sort of just like that. You need a kidney (one of her classmates in nursing school) and we have a break coming up. Pray this is the gal that is your first responder. Her brother Mark has always been the kindest of human beings, still goes to help his Grandma if she needs it. If there is someone helping a stranger, it is him. My baby girl also has that kind heart, one she has passed on to her children, as has Gina. A mother's dream is for children that are giving, loving human beings and I really, really lucked out.

My loving prince of a husband Tom also served in Viet Nam. He returned to a country that had nothing but contempt for those that served. Being the man he is he put all that behind him and did what he had to do. Terrific father of three lovely children, I will be forever grateful for the day I met him. Together we have made a wonderful life and gratefully share with each other our children, our extended families and 8 beautiful grandchildren, with one scheduled to arrive in February.

Thanksgiving is this lovely and wonderful family I have been blessed with. Upstanding, noble, kind, smart and giving, how can one not be thankful for that? And those 8 grandchildren I alluded to above? Well in addition to being perfectly beautiful they are talented and smart. No matter where any of us has been in our lives we have never been alone. Always knew we had a meal, always knew we had a warm place we could go. I think we all always knew we could have a dream and we could go for that dream. I don't believe we can even relate to those that don't have a dream. I will forever be thankful that I have been surrounded by all these wonderful human beings that have touched my life and continue to do so on a daily basis. To them I humbly say Happy Thanksgiving.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Day trip to Lokrum-nightlife in old town-Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Waking in this lovely area was a treat. It was relatively quiet where we were, especially in the morning. You could hear the sound of heels on the cement steps as people were heading off to wherever and neighbors saying their good mornings to other neighbors, but you didn't have any street type noise. The sky was bright and blue, it was almost impossible to tell where the sky and sea met. We never tired of this view. Lokrum island was right across from where we were staying and that is what we decided our day trip would be, a swimming excursion on Lokrum. This time we would not hit the beach without towels. Before we headed out lovely piano music drifted out from the place next door. It was something we would enjoy the entire time we were here.

Tom was up and out early and brought back fresh treats for our morning meal. We had a terrific "European" breakfast on the porch. Bon and I hung a few items out on the line and planned to do wash either later that day or the next morning. We got ourselves ready and walked down to the old town, this is where we would buy some towels and catch the boat to the island. Once on the boat you are on the island in a mere 10 minutes. We walked around a bit and stopped for a drink at the little restaurant/bar that is there. Peacocks are all over the place. Rollie had on a blue shirt and one of the bright blue peacocks jumped up on the back of his chair. We figured he (or she) was hitting on Rollie because he had some good colors. At least it never bit him. After the drink we decided to head back down to the water. We ended up swimming in the area right near where the boat drops visitors off. There were other places on this island that had nicer swimming spots, unfortunately we hadn't done our homework on this island so we swam at the first "swimming hole" we came to and while it was nice, it probably wasn't the nicest they had to offer here. They have a small bathroom, not really a changing room, but we did put our suits on there. There are little ladders going down in to the water and the bottom is huge rocks buried in sand. The salt water almost lifts you up so you float with ease (well they all did, I seem to sink like a rock no matter what). The water was perfect temperature-wise and the air was fresh and warm. We laid in the sun for awhile after swimming and it was very relaxing. We decided to walk the garden area so got dressed and headed out. We purchased the little brochure that had a map, outlined the island, what was there, some history and routes one could take from here to there. This is not a big island. We walked some of the paths, didn't go up the hill to the cross, but did see some very nice swimming areas we wished we had explored before jumping in earlier. The water is just unbelievably clear. The gardens were very nice and we watched some locals fishing on one bluff. We stopped back at the little restaurant, split a small sandwich and had a drink. There was a fellow playing the guitar and he was pretty good. Naturally he had some CD's out in front of him in his guitar case, so we bought one. It turned out to be a very nice CD. After awhile we ventured down to get the boat back. This little island sleeps at night. It is amazing, from our place we can see most of the northeast side of the island and at night there was one sail boat sort of tethered off the shore and we could see the light on that boat, otherwise it was all dark. There were cruise ships and yachts that dotted waters in between the island and the mainland as well. We were now in the land of the rich and famous. The boat got us back to old town in short order. We headed back to our place to freshen up.

The walk up to our place was beginning to be a drag. I have this problem when I eat and then walk shortly afterward. Yes, I get "seasick" and normally find myself puking alongside the road. So there I was, I had sent everyone else ahead, puking on the side of the road in front of the place the other group was staying and lo and behold, here they come only to find me on the side of the road looking gray. Poor gimpy Rollie is across the street at the crabby chicks bar with Tom and Bon is shopping by herself hoping I will get over what ails me. Sorry, not a pretty story.

We enjoyed our front porch again for before dinner drinks (not me, only water, I had to walk again) and a gorgeous sunset. It was beginning to get a little chilly out. I took a nice warm shower and then we headed out to find something to eat. We meandered around town, found the Internet and the guys had drinks while Bon and I wrote home. The bartender at this place was from Bosnia. At first he seemed unfriendly but then really opened up and talked with us and about himself. We left there in search of some place to eat and ended up at a little place on the steps side of the center, in one of the pathways heading upwards. I don't remember if we were late and places were filled up or if the menus didn't look right or why we ended up at this place. By now the night air was really chilly but we did eat outside. It was a pasta and pizza place and it was okay. Didn't write down the name of the place. I find it amazing how these restaurants, that have one or two tables on the inside and maybe six or so tables lined up on the sloping walkway, manage to make enough money. Our waiter was friendly though and the area was hopping. Further up the walk was a group of young people enjoying the evening and the music on the outside portion of a bar. We have noted on all our travels to Europe, American music, especially rock and roll is prevalent everywhere. It seems universal and Croatia was no exception. The young people responded wildly to various lyrics to several of the songs that were playing, especially the techno-mix of the Mama's & Papa's singing "California Dreamin". Yelps and clapping, all were having good fun.

On our walk back home we ran in to Tom & Suellen, they were on a mission for TP. We told them to come back with us, there was TP at our place they could have. So they did. We had a nightcap with them and they were off and we went to bed. Plan for tomorrow is an excursion that boasts a "fish dinner". Cool night and snuggled under the covers, another good nights sleep.

Dubrovnik, September 15, 2008

Monday, Monday, time to pack up and head out to Dubrovnik. There we will catch up again with our friends and begin the vacation wind down. Grabbed our water bottles and the nice fresh bakery for the ride, maneuvered out of the driveway and did the slow trek out of town. Our ride was going to be a good one, all along the coast.

It was a very manageable ride, we stopped to stretch our legs once and drank in the beauty of the sea. Sailboats out in the water, small towns built in to the hillside and islands covered in green. It was a taste of what was ahead. Missy, the GPS got us in to town and really quite close to the area of our next place. Believe it or not, we really didn't have city maps to get to our places, considering that, we did pretty good. We ended up stopping and calling the gal that was renting us the place. She gave us directions from where we were and then planned to meet us at the site. We found the address but were unsure about just which doorway was going to take us to the proper rental unit. She showed up and our place was down from the road we parked on. This place did not really have a designated parking spot. Here we were with this big whopping van... We did find a spot-will talk about that later. All forgiven when you got on the balcony and looked out on the Adriatic Sea and saw the beautiful walled city. Breathtaking, no other words, just simply breathtaking.

Our rooms were very nice, bright and clean, as all of our places have been on this trip. Bon & Rol took the space that had a tiny little kitchen area right in the bedroom, just as you walk in the door (so it wasn't facing the bed), with a very small bathroom off the bedroom. We had the room that had a sitting/dining/kitchen area, separate bedroom and nice size bathroom. Each place had silverware, place mats, glasses, dishes, etc., very well stocked. Additionally there was a washer we could use in a utility room right on our level and a clothesline in the yard. The gate locked so you were quite secure. There was a large porch with two tables, four chairs each. We spent a lot of time out there.

We got our stuff out of the van and settled in a bit. Wine, beer & snacks out on the porch and we laid out a plan. We popped down to the grocery store and got a few supplies. I had heard many good things about Mea Culpa, a pizza place in the old city, so that is where we were going to head to for supper. It took us awhile, but we found it. We sat at a table outdoors and all had pizza. We enjoyed the meal and took leftovers with us. This would be a part of a later breakfast. Our plan after dinner was to meet up with our other friends and so we did. Strolled around the old town a bit and then of course, had to find the Buza Bar and have a cocktail there. Leave it to Tom T to know the exact route. He got us there and we all enjoyed a nightcap out there on the rocks, facing the Adriatic. The sun was down by now and it was beginning to get a little chilly. This is why one should never travel without a scarf/shawl. A lifesaver when the sun goes down.

As it turned out our friends were staying in a place that was about 150 steps directly down from our place (and their place was about 150 steps from the bottom road that goes to the old town). Good Lord, old ladies with their bags of groceries do these steps every day! We checked out their rental and then headed back up to ours. There was a grocery store at this street level (the one that was 150 steps down from our place), right next to the Biker Bar. Talk about your unfriendly staff, the chick running this bar was unbelievably unfriendly. We stopped and asked a question once and she was quite rude and another time we just parked the guys for a drink while we did the grocery shopping (needing 4 people to carry groceries-come on beer and wine bottles are heavy). No points for smiling faces here. She had a neck brace on and we surmised someone probably tried to knock her block off (I know, that's mean).

The four of us had a last nightcap out on the porch. We could see the lights of the cruise ships out in the water and here and there a shot of light from a small boat working its way to the port. There was a huge harvest moon in the sky and it just beckoned one to linger. We laid out a plan for the next day and then settled in. All slept very well that night.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Adventure on the River Cetina, September 14, 2008

We awoke to gray and threatening skies. We telephoned the rafting place (it was before 7am) and they said weather was okay in their area and the adventure was still on. So off we went. We managed to get the van out of the parking spot and driveway without taking out any of the stone walls or shrubs lining the area. The ride to the small town of Omiš was a pleasant one, we had no troubles getting here at all. We met the guides and then followed them to a parking spot (a restaurant we would later eat at) and then got in their van and made the ride to the starting point of the adventure.

The other group heading out at the same time as us were six Russian women. Each raft had one guide and they were very entertaining and certainly seemed to know what they were doing. You get a brief lesson on how to handle the oar and they give you a few key command words. We donned our helmets and life vests and then were off.

The water was wonderfully clear and quite still when we began. The shores were bursting with greenery, shooting towards the sun in some places and dipping in the drink in other places. We had to duck down to clear branches in a few areas and we did have to guide ourselves with the oars through narrow passages on some parts of the river. There were dips and bends, some sharper than others. At one point they "docked" the rafts and had us all get out, walk (climb) up a rocky hill and then take a path, roughly a quarter of a mile and then down a very rocky slope to the waiting rafts. Wild rapids are what we missed, one guide tied one raft to the other and maneuvered through while the other guide walked us over. After that there were more rushes and dips, but all very manageable. At one point they got us under a waterfall, which was a big laugh for everyone. There was one pretty good size dipity-do and we had to remember one of the commands that had us dropping into the raft (normal position was sitting on the side rowing). Another of the stops was at a huge rock formation (about 3 stories high). They invited anyone adventurous enough to get out and make the climb to jump off the ledge. Only the guides were jumping. At this point there were several other rafts converged and we assumed they were all from the same company. From here it was a nice jaunt to the end point. The sun really only peeked out a few times but the rain stayed away the entire time we were on the water. You work up a pretty good sweat, we were glad to not have had the sun beating down while we were working so hard.

Once landed we helped carry the raft up and then changed clothes-we were soaked. There was another of those double U type changing areas, but it was off towards the woods so wasn't that disarming to use. There was a restaurant right there so we decided that is where we would lunch. We had left so early we really only had a coffee and a piece of fruit. All were good and hungry.

Restaurant Radmanove Mlinice obviously has the hoards of tourists arriving all at once down pat. There were several long, long banquet tables all set and ready to go for tour buses that would show up while we were there. Then of course they must get the rafters and since it was Sunday, families were everywhere as this was a park as well. We sat down and ordered our beverages. The table next to us had this huge platter just filled with all sorts of meats, etc. It looked wonderful! Additionally the specialty at this place is bread and it is to die for. Each loaf is about the size of a medium pizza, round with a truly appetizing golden brown crust. They had huge slices of this bread along with the tray of goodies. When the server came back we simply pointed to the table next to us and said "we'll have that". It had pork, sausage, the special little "hamburgers" Croatians make, potatoes, and several other yummy items. We left here thoroughly satisfied.

This complex used to be a mill that has been converted in to a restaurant. There is a trout stream and you can see them swimming around as you walk over the bridge. The huge brick oven has bread going all the time. After our wonderful lunch we walked over to the gelato stand and had a little treat.

It began to rain as we were heading back. We sort of settled in and then the rain really came. Several of us decided to nap, Bon settled down with her book. Once the rain stopped we decided to run out and get some snacks. First grocery store was closed and we worried we might not find one open, but the little store across the bridge and down the road was open. We got our stock and enjoyed the brisk air as we walked back. It was a lazy night for us all to kick back, organize the bags and prepare to head out the next day.

Thoughts on Trogir: We liked that it was a small town. Everything was easy to get to and our accommodations were wonderful. Our place was in the jet path though and they did fly over on a very regular basis but it really didn't bother us. The city itself could be heard but it wasn't an overwhelming blaring kind of noise. Certainly there was very little traffic noise although the road could be quite jammed when trying to get to the bridge to head out of town once everyone was up and moving. The people here were very friendly as well. The dock area was always abuzz with activity. We would return and we did find it a nice base for day trips.

Friday, November 21, 2008

Trogir and the beach, September 13, 2008

This morning we all were lazy. Enjoyed another breakfast out on the balcony and watched as the city across the bay came to life. We decided to browse around the town some more as there were a few things we wanted to pick up (items we should have bought when we first saw them). Also wanted to get some cards off so needed the Post Office.

We walked around the town, did some shopping and stopped at one of the waterfront bars for a drink. Drinks are expensive in these frontage places compared to what we have been paying. We decided since we had not been to a beach yet that is what we should do. We got information from the tourist office (not to be confused with the TI (tourist information) that all the cities and towns have. This was the same place that had the Internet we had been using. We for some reason do not have the name of the beach or the boat that we took and I can not find any information on it online-it is just lost in our brains somewhere. We think it was Donji Okrug Beach, but really can't say for sure. It was a total "veg out day". We caught the boat almost in front of the ruins in the bay and it traveled around the point of the island we were on. We were the only ones going but on the ride back home there were about 4 other people besides us.

The boat ride there was very nice. Once docked we walked down a path that led to the beach area. We stopped at a place to rent some chairs and ordered some drinks. Unfortunately they didn't rent towels. We did not have beach towels, it didn't even occur to me we would have to bring our own (don't ask me why). While it was very nice outside I knew if I went in the water and didn't have a towel I would simply freeze to death. Bon and Tom ventured out though and really enjoyed the water. The beach was a pebble beach, not sand and not big boulders (which we ran in to at a later beach). Rollie and I sat on our lounge chairs and enjoyed the peacefulness of it all. There were a few families enjoying the water as well. The little children did not have suits on, truly a European thing. Parents in America wouldn't dream of letting their kids run naked at a beach. All you see at American beaches are babies with sopping wet diapers hanging down to their knees. Our waiter was from Bosnia and he gladly told us how he loved Americans, especially Bill Clinton. We were like slugs on this beach, two ventured out in to the water and two just sat there. We only went exploring to find a potty. They do have very simple little set-ups for changing your clothes, right out there on the sidewalk. It is like two U's together, no door, you just step in and get around the bend and change your clothes. Only Tom used this one. I wasn't wet and Bon dried out on the beach and then just slipped her clothes on over her suit.

We took the boat back, some time around 6 I believe. We decided to climb up the ruins when we got back, as that is right where the boat dropped us off. Views from the top were very nice. Of course the pigeons have really taken the place over and the stairs in these places, well they certainly wouldn't be OSHA approved. They had a stage set up and chairs across from the area all set up so they must have open air venues there. Nothing was happening while we were there. Behind the ruins looks to be a soccer field. The entire area is really beautiful. That night the moon was big, white and full. Took a few snapshots and then headed back to our place.

We cleaned up and then headed back out for dinner. We ate at Kamerlengo, tucked inside the old town. We had passed this place several times and the menu looked interesting. I would say we found the waiters here to be a little on the hovering side. I get that whole stroll by the table thing but when there aren't any other tables where you are, it just gets annoying. We had soup and salads before our meals and they were good. All enjoyed the meals except for Tom. He had ordered a pork dish and it was just not good, the meat was very tough. When the waiter came back to take dishes and ask about our meal Tom let him know he didn't enjoy his (and in fact he hadn't eaten it, I shared my meal). The waiter took his meal right off the bill. We were quite surprised. Then he came by with after dinner shots, a shot of Grappa for Tom & Rollie and some kind of fruit schnapps for Bon & I, on the house he said, to make up for the bad meal. That was very nice of him, obviously he wanted to salvage our "dining experience" at this place and he did. A meandering walk back to our place. Tomorrow we have to get up and out early as we are going on a rafting adventure on the Cetina.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Side trip to Split, September 12

Awoke to bright sunlight and the prospect of another simply beautiful day. Bon and I had planned on doing our own little breakfast so we walked to the local bakery near the bridge, picked up some fresh bread/rolls, naturally some schnechts (old German saying for bakery-anyone from Milwaukee will know this word) as well as some fresh fruit and then got to cutting and arranging and set a lovely table on the balcony. Our boys were duly impressed. This is the way to live, linger over coffee watching the sail boats waft in and out of the bay. But we did have to get ourselves up and out as we were going to Split today.

We went to the bus station (based upon our Fodor's research we had decided on the "fast bus", much like a Greyhound) bought tickets (21 Kn each-which at the time we were there was about $4) for the "coach" and then went to the area at the bus station they said the bus would be. We were happy we made this choice. The other buses would have made many stops and it is hard to know what the comfort level would have been on said ride. Several buses came and went where we were waiting before our bus showed up. One only had to show the ticket to the driver and he knew if you belonged on his bus or not. Once on the bus, very nice, comfortable seat and not crowded at all. We just sat where we wanted to on the ride there.

Once in Split it was quite easy to locate Diocletian's Palace as we were dropped right in front of it. Nice digs. We didn't think about asking where we had to catch the bus back to Trogir. We'd made a plan to meet up with our friends somewhere in the "center", but had telephones in case we could not find one another. The place was hopping, lots of tours groups and waiters bustling back and forth. It is really kind of cool, they have cushions set out on the stone walls and if you sit, the waiter arrives. Of course if you sit you are expected to order, which does seem fair to me. We ordered 4 coffees-what? Okay, coffees for Bon and I and the guys had beer (because when on vacation it is drink time somewhere in the universe). They bring a little board type thing to set your drinks on and you are good to go. We have noticed (and loved) that Europeans don't use plastic cups, they like the real thing. Found our friends and then off to explore.

This complex is immense. If Tom and I were to go back we would hire a private guide. There are shops all over, it is impossible to get a sense of the history of the place. We knew some of the background because we had done some reading beforehand. The other group of travelers were staying in this complex and they liked their places. We went to see the rooms (to use the facilities) and they were very nice. Narrow walk to the storefront that they were above and up several flights of stairs for one of the apartments. Since it is such close quarters (building-wise) they didn't have much of a view. The rooms were air conditioned though and they were glad for that. There also were computers in their rooms with Internet access. The gal that had the studio below them and ran the place was ready to pop a baby out at any moment!

We strolled around, witnessed the fish market, which was quite lively and then stopped and had a drink. Compared to off the beaten path places, cocktails were quite expensive here. We are spoiled already, cocktail hour just has not been breaking the bank. A little more strolling and then we went looking for a place that Tom T had scoped out earlier, for something to eat. We walked all the way to Marjan city park. This park offers a spectacular view of the sea and the Split promenade, “The Riva”. We actually had passed the restaurant and ended up at the park. We asked someone for directions to the place and they poo-poo'd the idea of going there. They recommended a place right on the promenade, do not remember the name, but I think it was the pizza place at the hotel right there on the promenade. We ate outdoors, it was the casual of the two restaurants that were there. We all had pizza. A few shared a pizza, the rest of us each had our own. They bill these as individual but they are huge. All were absolutely delicious. It did begin to sprinkle a little bit, but not a big deal. After that it was time to head towards the bus terminal to catch our bus back to Trogir. We had thought we would simply catch the bus back where we were dropped, but that wasn't the case. There were two distinctly different bus terminals so we had to figure that out. We did. Stopped at a gelato stand on the way because obviously an entire pizza was just not enough. Good-byes to our friends, a plan to catch up in Dubrovnik and we were on our way.

Got the bus with no trouble. Sat down and planned to close our eyes for the ride home. But there was a problem. Seems there were too many people and people were not in their assigned seats. Assigned seats? We didn't know we had assigned seats. I looked at our tickets and sure enough, we were supposed to be in seat 13 and seat 14. Luckily we were at the beginning and the jostling around didn't hamper us getting to our assigned seats and staying in them. Others, not so lucky. Many had to stand for the ride home. After all that we got back to Trogir safe and sound. Took a slow stroll through town, stopped at a grocery store and then headed to the balcony. All in all a very fun day. We were glad to have seen Split but were happy we had chosen to stay in Trogir. It is certainly a much smaller town but that is what we like. The town was lively at night and once back at our place we could hear the music from the harbor side bars. Hang out on the balcony until it is time for bed. Tomorrow we will find a beach....

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Trogir-September 11, 2008

We left the beautiful park area and had a pleasant drive to Trogir although we sure did see many abandoned and destroyed buildings and homesteads on the ride. We stopped at a roadside stand and bought some local cheese. It was not really cheap but it sure was good. Since this was from her farm, paying a few kuna more seemed like a good deal. We did stop in a little town called Prozor-Vrlika, needed a little potty/drink break. Children were walking around with their back packs on so they were either going or coming I guess. There was a little market (I use the term lightly) so we walked down the street and it wasn't much. Old men with machine parts and old ladies with clothing that didn't look very fashionable. Everyone just sort of sitting there, really kind of weird. We walked back to the main street we had come in on and sat at a table-the bar was actually across the street but there was no area on that side for outside seating-they were utilizing space across the narrow road. We each had a drink and used their facilities (we found every single place we stopped at on the entire trip to be gracious about letting people use the restrooms). We thought maybe we would get a bite to eat while stopped but there was not a restaurant in town. Not one. He said about 10 miles out we might find one. Clearly they are struggling to survive in this town. From this point we really saw lots of damaged buildings. We hit Trogir and getting in to town here is a little tricky. We actually did find our place with little trouble-luckily they (Kasalo) do give you good info on just about where they are and they had a sign on the bottom road which we saw on our first pass through (it is almost like a large U that you travel up, make a sharp turn and then are behind all the properties you were looking up at). We were staying at the family KASALO apartments. We had more trouble turning this huge van in the driveway than we did finding the place! But we made it, our hosts were there and our place was all ready for us. Really nice people and a tiny little guard dog to boot!

What terrific accommodations. Our balcony overlooked the port and "castle ruins". The yachts are unbelievable here. We were getting close to the land of the rich and famous. There were patio doors that lead out to the balcony, so the view was always there and the central room was nice and bright. The balcony was covered, which was wonderful since it absolutely poured one of the days we were here. They had a rack for hanging clothes out as well as a table and chairs for outside dining. The central room had a large sectional type sofa, coffee table, a TV, a table at a banquette, with a few chairs and then a kitchen "area" that had a sink, fridge, 2 burners and cupboards with dishes and pots and pans. We surely would be utilizing this area. Only drawback here was that there was only one bathroom. Our travel buds are easy going as are we so it worked out just fine for us, never was an issue. There also was a loft here but we never used it at all. There were two bedrooms and each were just fine-clean linens, ample space to hang some clothes, bedside tables and a nice large window for air and light. One room had a double bed and one room had twin beds. They also have the nice outside roller blinds which kept the place nice and cool. For the most part we had pretty warm weather here.

After settling in we ventured to the city center, which actually was just across the bridge (more or less) from where we were staying. I would say about a 10 minute walk. Internet access was nearby at a tourist shop, although there were only two computers here. As is the case everywhere these days, Internet access or cafes are easy to find. No shortage here either. Had to check out where we would get a bus to Split as we just didn't want to take the van. More about the bus later. The market here is wonderful and the small old town is fun to lose yourself in-narrow walkways that branch off and off and off, with little shops here and there. We strolled through the market, bought a shirt for Tom T, bought some olive oil from a little old lady, marveled at the great old buildings and then went looking for some place to eat. Pasta and pizza night for us-beer of course for the guys and wine for Bon and I so we chose an outdoor setting, K? The sign said Hausgemachte Nudlen-Pizza-Home Made Pasta with a K on either side, so I assumed it was called "K". We found it enjoyable and the waiter entertaining. A little more browsing around, a stop at a local grocery and then we headed back to our place. Great to hang out on the balcony. Night cap and off to bed for everyone. Tomorrow we would catch the bus for Split and see how the old rich and famous used to live.

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Plitvice National Park-9/10/08

Today we awoke to the peacefulness of the lovely park area. We joined our friends Tom & Nancy, Tom & Suellen and Bon & Rollie down in the breakfast room to have our morning meal and plan the day. The breakfast was a simple and pleasant one, cheese, sliced meat, rolls, juice, coffee or tea, yogurt, the standard fare for these kind of places. We decided when to meet to walk the park. This is a must-do when in this area and of course one of the reasons we made the stop here. Tom T tried (again) to get some Kuna and his Tyme card wouldn't work here either. Seems this was an ongoing thing. All the rest of us, as well as his travel group, had no problem accessing our accounts through the local ATM's. He called his bank, a local bank in Wisconsin, North Shore Bank and they told him it was the government that was not letting them let him get his money. Okay, well we all knew that story was a load. He made a little video at the ATM which we urged him to post on YouTube-one of those "Leave home without it..." spoofs (I don't think he ever posted it though). He resolved this when he got home-yes never was able to withdraw while in Croatia-by going in to the bank and closing his account. Talk about your miserable customer service! A good lesson here, always have a back up plan for money. He did notify his bank before he left the states. They knew his destinations, that is probably the scariest part of the story. Lucky for him he was traveling with friends that were spotting him cash until they returned home. He would have had to get cash on a credit card or have someone wire him cash if they had been alone. Wow, that would really tick me off!

Off to the park. There are numerous trails. Which one you take depends upon what your tolerance is. There are different points that you can catch a bus or a boat. We opted for the one that was in the 2 to 3 hour range if I'm not mistaken. Of course we lolly gagged at the restaurant in the middle of the walk so that added to our time in the park. You also have wait time for the boat and for the bus. One does need to give it a full day even if you are only going to do the "short walk". The trail was spectacular. Waterfalls everywhere pouring in to crystal clear lakes and streams. Mother Nature is what is happening here. Pictures do not do it justice, nor do mere words, although we took pictures of the water and you can actually see the fish swimming around. We were traveling at what is considered almost off season and there still were plenty of tourists. It was a very warm day and I was glad I had my big old straw hat. We made the walk with no problems at all. Everyone enjoyed it, no casualties in our group. There was one lady the heat got to, lucky for her everyone let her get to the front of the line so she could get on the next boat, sit down and get out of the sun.

After the walk we cleaned up, some rested and some sat outside enjoying the peaceful evening, sharing stories, evening cocktails and music of course. We were all leaving the next day, heading south, each group to a different area with plans to meet up one day in Split. We went to Licka Kuca again and as I noted earlier, it wasn't anything spectacular. They were out of whatever had been the "special" and what we had was just okay. I think those that had fish enjoyed there meals. Plans to meet for breakfast and then off to bed for everyone.

Thoughts on the park: As they say, certainly a must see. It is serene and breathtaking. The walkways are in very good condition. We are walkers, not hikers but found this to be a wonderful place to just walk. I am quite sure the hikers love the park as well. I'm with everyone else that says this is well worth the time and deserves a visit. We would return here as well.

Plitvice Lakes National Park & Krizmanic Guest House-9/9/08

Today we pack up and head out to the National Park. We are sad to leave the city but looking forward to the serenity of the park area. Additionally we will catch up with our friends at Krizmanic Guest House.

The ride was a pleasant one although it was very disarming to see land mine signs, warning you not to venture off the road in some areas because they had not completed the sweep for land mines. Another of those reminders of the recent war in this country. Aside from that the area we were heading to was simply beautiful, especially at this time of year. Not quite fall but the start of earlier darkness, cooler evenings and mornings while there were still hot afternoons. We could not have had better weather. We stopped in a small town on our way, had a few drinks, bought a few groceries (wine, beer, fresh fruit & snacks) and then sent off a few cards from the Post Office.

We found the park with no trouble at all. Krizmanic Guest House is very quaint in a quiet little section. The hostess was a lovely young woman. Unfortunately she had been stung by a bee on her foot and she limped the entire time we were there. Didn't hamper the service at all. The place was very well kept up. Our rooms were spotless as was the breakfast area. It really seemed as though she was there all by herself. The rooms we had were billed as an adjoining suite but it actually was two separate bedrooms with a little nook that had a refrigerator & sink as well as dishes and glasses, more or less in a hallway, although there was a locked door and a sitting room across from Bon and Rollie's bedroom. The outside space was not directly outside our rooms but it was nice. While it wasn't as we thought it was, based on various pictures we had seen, it worked out for us. She had a picnic table with an umbrella in the front and we enjoyed that area while at her place. We set up the iPod with speakers and enjoyed Patsy Cline and a few other relaxing tunes while we had our before dinner cocktails.

We walked over to the Licka Kuca restaurant. Truthfully we found it to be just so-so. It was late and maybe that had something to do with it. They were out of what we wanted (both visits as it turned out). The staff was not exceptionally friendly and the place was rather dark. For all the hype prior to our visit we just didn't find it anything special. We are not food snobs either. Our choices are simple places, we like to eat as the locals do and as we do at home. 5 star restaurants are not what we look for but we do like decent food, portioned properly with friendly service. This probably comes from my years in food service.

Retiring for the evening we knew the Tischer's and Bruechner's were going to be arriving in the middle of the night so we had an ear out for them (well I did, Tom slept like a log that night, never heard them at all). I heard their car creeping down the street, as our room faced the front road. They had two way radios so they could communicate with Bon once they arrived. Safely inside they came upstairs and we sat around in the little sitting room listening to the stories of their trip so far. Finally around 3 am we all went to bed. We agreed to meet in the breakfast room and then do the "walk".

"Kristal Tuk" Crystal Factory in Samobor-9/8/08

Here we are, our last full day in Zagreb, time is flying by. Our plan for this last day in the area was to travel to Samobor to visit the crystal factory. So again we headed out in the van.

Samobor was on our original itinerary but we were not aware of the crystal factory when we penciled it in. The people we ran in to at the airport recommended finding the factory and shopping here, among their other recommendations, so we took them up on it. The drive to Samobor was stress free. We found a place to park and walked around the town, stopping for coffee at an outside cafe.

We had no trouble finding Kristal Tuk, it was located on a side street, off the main drag. There was a small storefront shop where you could see some of there wares and purchase them. Off this little shop was a studio where the artisans were grinding and etching the beautiful crystal. Bon and I could have gone crazy here, prices were very reasonable. Problem of course is carrying this stuff around town and getting it back home in one piece. We could not resist several items as gifts. I took care of my secret pal, a little something for my mother in law's birthday, something for one of my girls and of course a small vase for myself. I would recommend this place for anyone interested in glass.

After the factory we were going to try to locate the Internet cafe. We left the guys enjoying a drink and headed up the street to find said Internet cafe. We missed the turn to the little bar that actually had the Internet and ended up walking to the next town. Once there we turned around and walked back and of course it was what we thought was an entrance to a hotel was the bridge we should have gone over. Either way, it was a pleasant walk. We took care of our emails, had another drink and then did some more exploring.

We ran in to a search & rescue team from Canada. They were here for a convention of sorts with other teams from around the world. Dressed in orange with their dogs all decked out in orange they were enjoying some free time to browse the lovely little town. A peek inside the church and we were on our way. Well, not really. When we got back to the van there was a ticket on it. Now we had to figure out where to pay. We found a bank and paid our 100.00 HRK. Now we were on our way.

Back to Zagreb. We planned on having supper in old town. First we wanted to stop and say good bye to our friend at RO & DO. Alas, the place was closed and he wasn't around. We had a drink at the bar next door and had a nice conversation with a local. He had spent time in the US and said one of his girls was in New York at this time. Always interesting to get another perspective. His English was perfect. Actually we found that almost everyone spoke and understood English quite well. As we were leaving we did run in to Dominik Skoric and he was happy we came to say good bye. He insisted on buying us a shot, we insisted he had one with us and so we had a toast. "Ahh, my great American friends". We were glad we caught up with him. He recommended Pizzeria 2 for dinner and we took his advice. The fare was simple food we all really enjoyed. The server was a pleasant gal and this was a pleasant end to our stay in Zagreb.

Day Trip to Trakoscan Castle-9/7/08

A lovely Sunday morning and today we decided to venture out in the van. The folks we had met at the airport highly recommended visiting the Trakoscan Castle so that is where we were off to. The drive to the castle wasn't bad, we found it with little trouble. Missy (the GPS) got us close enough to the town so we simple had to follow the signs to the castle.

We had a drink before we headed up to the castle. A short trek up the walkway (always up to a castle) and a reading of the brief history of the castle and we were in. The castle was in very good repair having been restored in the first half of the 19th century and occupied for several generations after that. The various collections were well displayed and quite interesting. We found the castle well worth our visit. The countryside surrounding the castle was lovely and the views were simply breathtaking. It is always easy to see what the draw was for the original castle builder. You are up above everyone else with stunning sights and clear view of all who get near.

After the castle we decided to try navigate the countryside and head toward Koprivnica to find the beer hall Kralus. I had read some good reviews so this seemed like a nice destination. Tom characterizes this particular drive as the drive from hell. We ran in to road construction and detours which sent us in to Slovenia. While we love Slovenia, that was not our destination. Luckily we always carry our passports. We could have had a problem here had we not had them with us. We were all now tired and hungry and this zigging in and out of countries was no longer amusing. We finally did find the town, located a parking space and ventured towards what appeared to be the city center.

The town was abuzz with families, out with their strollers and children on bicycles. This is a traditional small town sort of thing in this country. Families are out and about on Sunday afternoons, walking along the pedestrian friendly walkways and stopping to chat with friends they meet along the way. We just happened upon the Kralus Beer Hall while walking so stopped to have our meal. Since it was so nice out we did want to eat outside. I think the experience of a beer hall is probably best had on the inside. While I did see the inside when I used the ladies room, we did not have our meal inside and I think that is where the "experience" of Kralus would have been. We did have a decent dinner although the table was so small it was difficult for the waiter to get everything on it. In retrospect we should have eaten inside the beer hall.

This was the only place we ran in to a child beggar. He came around to all the tables with his sad eyes and hands out. When he approached our table we waived him off, shaking our heads no but he came forward anyway. Another patron, I assumed he was a local, yelled at the boy and told him to scat. Just like that the sad little face turned hateful and the boy flipped the man the bird and trotted off.

The ride back was much nicer than the ride there. We managed to get back to our place all in one piece and ready for another pleasant wind-down on the balcony. Plans for the next day are the crystal factory.

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Change you can believe in

According to this article Mr. Change has picked an old Clinton aide, described as: "... Emanuel, a fellow Chicago politician and veteran of the Bill Clinton White House..." as his chief of staff. This pit bull (if you read what other Democrats have had to say about him) does not sound like the type of change promised to those so hungry for civility in Washington. It will be interesting to see how this news is reacted to by the mainstream "media". Perhaps we should just look to those that were kicked off the plane. I suspect they will be the only ones actually reporting on what is going on with an Obama administration.

Most did say the test would be who he surrounds himself with. Let's face it, in the past his choices for who he associates with were certainly questionable. He disassociated in order to win. What now?

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Clark Howard on Barack Obama Tax Plan

Well, this long, long election is finally over. Now we just need to figure out what the ramifications of this historic election will be. My economic hero, Clark Howard, feels anyone in the $100,000.00 range should start looking for shelter for their money. Personally I think it will hit those below $100,000.00, but we will see.

I work for a small business. I have been treated very well by this small business. I'm hopeful that this business will not be negatively affected by this new administration, because the success of this company has translated in to success for me. For my husband and I, well we have raised 7 children between us and have worked very, very hard to get where we are, giving up much along the way. Are we really selfish for wanting to keep what we work for? Are we selfish for saving for retirement, giving up that money now to have in the future? Do we need to worry that our savings will be considered excess riches that need to be shared? Questions to be answered as this future administration unfolds. As he campaigned he did seem to have disdain for those of us that have worked hard for years and have managed to amass salary gains and/or savings. Time I suppose will tell.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Senator John McCain

In the next few days (hopefully by the end of tomorrow, election day 2008) we will know who the president will be. This election will be talked about ad nausea even though many of the "dirty tricks" and "smears" are nothing new, it has been a part of this process for well over 200 years. What was unbelievable in this election was the media bias. This election has brought about the final nail in the coffin of "the press", once an elite and respected group. Those words no longer describe the media of today. Fortunately we have other alternatives.

Senator John McCain is an honorable man. When he ran in 2000 he was my candidate of choice. I was sorry that he didn't make it through the primary. I really didn't think he had a chance this year and was surprised when he pulled his campaign together and pulled it off. I know he isn't conservative enough for some and not liberal enough for others, but on the very important issues we agree.

I think the Senator never saw the media blitz/bias coming. He always had been fair with the media and let's face it, for a while he was the media darling. The media loved it when he dissented from President Bush, something they had amnesia about as the campaign marched on. How telling that the bill that bares his name, as well as his taking the public financing, will probably be what history will say killed his opportunity to fight the money from Obama's side. (And where did all that money come from? We will never, ever know.) Whatever the outcome, John McCain is a selfless hero, a man of his word that deserves our respect and unwavering thanks. Really a class act.